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Sunday, February 17, 2013
Bonne Bouche
Bonne Bouche is the flagship of Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery’s signature geotrichum-rinded aged goat cheeses. Introduced in 2001, Bonne Bouche quickly won acclaim. Today it is one of the most popular “geo” cheeses on the market and has been awarded some of the most prestigious honors in the cheese world. Reminiscent of the Loire Valley cheeses of France, Bonne Bouche means “good mouthful” and is indeed a tasty bite.
Straight off the shelf, it's got the characteristic lemony tang of a fresh chèvre with a fluffy, lightly chalky texture and a distinct nutty aroma from the poplar ash that coats its exterior. As good as it is then, it's even better when aged in the fridge for a few weeks. As the cheese continues to ripen, it transforms as the chalky paste slowly becomes rich and creamy from the outside-in.
At its best, it's creamy enough that it droops and runs when served properly at room temperature, the faintest chalky lemony core surrounded by rich, gooey layers of creaminess with a robust, nutty funk permeating it from the rind. It's one of those cheeses that just begs for a sweet pairing. Honey is my cheese-plate partner of choice, but I could see any number of jams or preserves working in its place. Prunes soaked in cognac and simple syrup, sticky dates, anything with a syrupy sweetness to counteract the sharp tang of the cheese.
The most difficult part? Seeing that cute little disk sitting in your fridge every day and waiting until just the right moment to cut into it. Here's a suggestion: get a few of them. That way when you inevitably succumb to temptation, you'll at least have a backup plan.
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